Frequently Asked Questions?
Q.What are "Chilling Hours"?
A. In order for trees to produce fruit, they must undergo a period in which cold weather induces dormancy. This die-back of the tree in winter helps them store up energy for the fruit producing season in the spring and summer. In general, fruit trees need temperatures to drop below 45 degrees F for a set period of time, with each fruit and each variety of fruit typically needing a different amount of so-called "chilling hours."
Q. What are ''Stone Fruits"?
A. Any fruit with a pit is considered a stone fruit. These include apricots, nectarines, plums, peaches. They're also referred to as "soft fruits".
Q. What does "Freestone" mean?
A.The pit of a freestone peach separates easily from the flesh.
Q.What does "Bare Root" mean?
A. A bare root plant is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than in soil.
Not all types of plants can handle being shipped this way. However for those that can, such as roses, fruit trees and shrubs and several perennials including hosta and daylilies, it is perfectly acceptable.
Plants sold bare root are dormant and should be planted ASAP. The roots should be kept moist at all times while exposed.
Not all types of plants can handle being shipped this way. However for those that can, such as roses, fruit trees and shrubs and several perennials including hosta and daylilies, it is perfectly acceptable.
Plants sold bare root are dormant and should be planted ASAP. The roots should be kept moist at all times while exposed.
Q. What does "Standard Size & EZ Pick" mean?
A. A standard tree is just that, it branches at about four feet and will become tall with age.
An EZ Pick tree has been topped at about 18 inches and allowed to branch from there. An EZ Pick tree is very round in shape and will offer the fruit at a lower easier to pick level. The standard tree has a more architectural look.
A. A standard tree is just that, it branches at about four feet and will become tall with age.
An EZ Pick tree has been topped at about 18 inches and allowed to branch from there. An EZ Pick tree is very round in shape and will offer the fruit at a lower easier to pick level. The standard tree has a more architectural look.
Q. Summer vs. Dormant Pruning?
A. Use summer pruning to train young trees and shorten the time to full fruit production. On mature trees, summer pruning involves mainly: 1) removing vigorous, upright shoots that are not needed to create permanent branches and 2) heading shoots to control tree height. Summer pruning is done in both spring and summer. When useful, bend and stake any shoots of young trees that you want to grow in a different direction during the spring and summer. Bending branches hastens branch development compared to removing or heading those in undesirable locations and waiting for a new branch to form. If trees received appropriate summer training and pruning, far less dormant pruning is necessary. However, the absence of leaves provides a clear view of the framework of the tree, so thin or head any branches that were not adequately pruned.
When you dormant prune, it is preferable to prune stone fruits in late February to early March rather than in the fall or early winter. Pruning wounds made late in the dormant season heal faster than those made earlier, allowing less time for disease organisms to infect the wound; also, there is less rain after february. Furthermore, spores of many organisms causing branch diseases are more prevalent with early season rains than later. This is especially true with Eutypa diseases, which infects apricots and grapes. And causes sever gumming and branch die back, so it is especially important to prune apricots late in the season. Apples and pears can be safely pruned at any time.
A. Use summer pruning to train young trees and shorten the time to full fruit production. On mature trees, summer pruning involves mainly: 1) removing vigorous, upright shoots that are not needed to create permanent branches and 2) heading shoots to control tree height. Summer pruning is done in both spring and summer. When useful, bend and stake any shoots of young trees that you want to grow in a different direction during the spring and summer. Bending branches hastens branch development compared to removing or heading those in undesirable locations and waiting for a new branch to form. If trees received appropriate summer training and pruning, far less dormant pruning is necessary. However, the absence of leaves provides a clear view of the framework of the tree, so thin or head any branches that were not adequately pruned.
When you dormant prune, it is preferable to prune stone fruits in late February to early March rather than in the fall or early winter. Pruning wounds made late in the dormant season heal faster than those made earlier, allowing less time for disease organisms to infect the wound; also, there is less rain after february. Furthermore, spores of many organisms causing branch diseases are more prevalent with early season rains than later. This is especially true with Eutypa diseases, which infects apricots and grapes. And causes sever gumming and branch die back, so it is especially important to prune apricots late in the season. Apples and pears can be safely pruned at any time.
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