Bare Root Planting & Care
CARE BEFORE PLANTING
Realize that all bare root stock, though dormant, is also in a state of shock. They have been dug up from the field with an inevitable loss of roots, and need special care even before planting. The most important thing to remember is KEEP THE ROOTS MOIST. Even for brief periods, i.e. while transporting them to the planting site. If you have not pre dug the holes for your trees and must keep them for more than a few days, they should be HEELED IN (buried in a moist medium), in a shady spot and watered thoroughly. Keep the roots packed in sand, peat moss, potting mix or aged sawdust (avoid fresh sawdust or wood shavings as they may contain compounds that inhibit root formation). Trees can be kept like this for several weeks if necessary, but should always be permanently planted before showing any signs of bud swell or growth. Protect trees from freezing before planting. Prior to planting, SOAK TREES IN WATER FOR 12 TO 24 HOURS. This will afford the trees a good long drink to compensate for any moisture loss in storage and shipping.
Ben Joy Nursery Bare Root Delivery January 2012
SITE SELECTION
Each plant has specific needs such as drainage, soil type, soil fertility, exposure and moisture. Generally, a moderately fertile and well drained site is best. Do some research to find out the requirements of your plants. When choosing a site, pay attention to microclimates. Cold air, which may cause damaging spring frosts, drains away from slopes and ridges, making them good sites for planting. Planting near a south facing wall can help late fruits to ripen in colder climates. On the other hand, trees such as Apricots, which are susceptible to early blooming, sometimes benefit from a colder site, say on a north side of a building, to keep them from blooming to early and losing their blossoms to winter rains. After choosing the site and spacing desired, lay out the orchard by putting 5 foot stakes at each tree location to line up and visually determine the planting sites. Remember that pollenizers, when required, should be within 50 feet of each other, the closer the better.
Each plant has specific needs such as drainage, soil type, soil fertility, exposure and moisture. Generally, a moderately fertile and well drained site is best. Do some research to find out the requirements of your plants. When choosing a site, pay attention to microclimates. Cold air, which may cause damaging spring frosts, drains away from slopes and ridges, making them good sites for planting. Planting near a south facing wall can help late fruits to ripen in colder climates. On the other hand, trees such as Apricots, which are susceptible to early blooming, sometimes benefit from a colder site, say on a north side of a building, to keep them from blooming to early and losing their blossoms to winter rains. After choosing the site and spacing desired, lay out the orchard by putting 5 foot stakes at each tree location to line up and visually determine the planting sites. Remember that pollenizers, when required, should be within 50 feet of each other, the closer the better.
Digging the Hole
The old rule of thumb is to dig a ten dollar hole for a one dollar tree. Dig the hole twice the diameter and twice the root mass of the tree, at least 3’ by 3’ for grafted trees. When digging keep the topsoil and subsoil separate. Loosen the sides and the bottom of the hole. Note that the shovel may “glaze” the sides of the hole, especially in clay soils, leaving a hard, compact surface that is impenetrable to young roots. For this reason it is always advisable to fracture the sides of the hole when filling in. AMENDMENTS – Placing too many goodies in the hole, such as manure or compost, can create an environment that the tree roots never venture out of. The best amendments are low bulk sources of minerals, such as bonemeal, soft rock phosphate, kelp meal etc. Mix these with the topsoil, to be placed in the bottom of the hole, where most active root growth will occur.
The old rule of thumb is to dig a ten dollar hole for a one dollar tree. Dig the hole twice the diameter and twice the root mass of the tree, at least 3’ by 3’ for grafted trees. When digging keep the topsoil and subsoil separate. Loosen the sides and the bottom of the hole. Note that the shovel may “glaze” the sides of the hole, especially in clay soils, leaving a hard, compact surface that is impenetrable to young roots. For this reason it is always advisable to fracture the sides of the hole when filling in. AMENDMENTS – Placing too many goodies in the hole, such as manure or compost, can create an environment that the tree roots never venture out of. The best amendments are low bulk sources of minerals, such as bonemeal, soft rock phosphate, kelp meal etc. Mix these with the topsoil, to be placed in the bottom of the hole, where most active root growth will occur.
